The Best Restaurants in Hollywood

The storied Musso & Frank Grill has anchored the Hollywood scene since 1919, and the famous faces that have passed through its doors reads like a cinematic and literary Who’s Who of the past century. In addition to its iconic location and designation as the oldest restaurant in Hollywood, Musso's and has been in the same family since 1927, when original proprietors Joseph Musso and Frank Toulet sold the restaurant to John Mosso and his partner Joseph Carrissimi. Today, Musso’s is operated by the third and fourth generations of the Mosso family, a reflection of the pride in ownership and a continuity of service that is unique in Los Angeles. It’s a theme that’s carried through many members of the wait staff, several of whom have been at Musso’s for more than 40 years. When regulars make a reservation, they don’t ask for a specific table, they request one in the section of their favorite waiter.

The kitchen has been entrusted to only three executive chefs in the entire 94-year history of the restaurant. The current toque, J.P. Amateau, came in all the time as a kid with his dad, a director and producer who had a house account and ordered the legendary “flannel cakes” from his counter perch. The sweet pancake-crêpe hybrid remains a daytime menu staple. At night, the grill on the Old Room side sees most of the action, with steaks and chops being a focal point, but the Charlie Chaplin-favorite lamb kidneys have a following as well. And the fettucini Alfredo is none other than the original recipe Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford brought back from their honeymoon in Rome.

Musso’s is also famed for its classic martini, a legendary cocktail that’s best enjoyed at the vintage bar in the New Room. Though this space was part of the 1955 expansion, many elements such as the chandelier and the bar itself were part of the original Writer’s Room that debuted after the end of Prohibition. (PHOTO: Martini - Musso & Frank courtesy of Thirsty in LA)

Beachwood Café may be the best-kept secret in Hollywood. The adorable little eatery celebrated its one-year anniversary in March 2013, but it's still largely under the radar. People seem to think it’s far off the beaten path, but it’s located only one mile up Beachwood Canyon from Franklin Ave. It’s only a matter of time before the rest of the city discovers what many locals already know: there’s something special here. The prices are affordable and the seasonal menu offers truly unique dishes, many with Asian accents.

The restaurant’s secret weapon is chef Minh Phan, formerly of Axe in Venice. Phan favors ingredients from northern regions in her cooking, citing parts of Asia and Scandinavia as especially influential, along with the Mediterranean for its emphasis on grains and produce. Her cream-braised corn and orzo with smoked bacon is a big seller and one of the few regularly available items, along with the “flexitarian,” which uses seasonal vegetables and gives diners a choice of proteins. Minh doubles as the wine buyer and picks small-production varietals that pair well with the clean flavors of the food, such as a Burgundian chardonnay with the sole. She’s also the pastry chef, and her cardamom cake with homemade chai cream is amazing even if you’re not a dessert person.

The dinner menu changes at least four times each year, on the equinoxes and solstices. Breakfast and lunch are entirely different experiences. There’s higher table turnover and more of an American comfort food focus, which Phan leaves partly to the direction of owner Patti Peck, who previously helmed Millie’s and Edendale Grill. (PHOTO: Shiso sole - Beachwood Café by Minh Phan, courtesy of Beachwood Café)

Peruvian cuisine has become one of the biggest food trends in LA, with much of the credit going to Ricardo Zarate, thanks to his 2011 Best New Chef designation by Food & Wine magazine. But Los Balcones del Peru has been quietly and steadily building a loyal following in Hollywood since 2005. Named after the variety of balconies that are an architectural fixture throughout Peru, the restaurant is celebrating its eighth anniversary in April with the opening of a new lounge area and, for the first time, a full bar. The menu is changing as well, with many signature dishes remaining and new ones added. The small plates format allows novices to experiment with as many tastes as possible.  

Owner and Lima native Jorge Rodriguez likes to call Peru “the real melting pot,” but his mission when he opened Los Balcones was to “present another angle of Peruvian food.” He says what LA knew before was mostly the Asian influences in dishes like lomo saltado (sautéed beef), which is what he ate as a kid at home, not in restaurants. Signature dishes like the marinated beef heart and ceviches will stay, but will be joined by (fully cooked) ceviche de pollo and pork spare ribs. At the bar, expect plenty of pisco sours, but also traditional chilcanos, a lighter beverage made with pisco, lime and ginger ale. (PHOTO: Tiradito - Los Balcones del Peru by Joshua Lurie)

In 2011, Santos Uy took a trip to Paris that not only changed his life but also what it means to be a neighborhood restaurant in Hollywood. Every night he experienced prix fixe menus and fell in love with the simplicity of that style of dining. On the trip back, he jotted down notes for his next restaurant concept, and ended up selling his original downtown restaurant, Bacaro, to finance it. Toying between a DTLA food court and an old Altadena bakery, he later settled on an old Raffalo’s strip mall location on Franklin. It's a move that seems prescient now, given the Ludo Lefebvre/Animal partnership on Trois Mec, a new restaurant that also utilizes an old Raffalo’s.

Since opening in 2011, Papilles hasn’t strayed much from the original concept. Like the Parisian restaurants Uy experienced, the format is limited to prix fixe offerings. Foie gras was once available as a supplement, but since the ban, it’s been replaced with occasional uni offerings, as well as more expensive main-course substitutions like a rib eye for two. Uy says that at first, there were some misperceptions about the price: “$30-something for a three-course menu is a big number to hear all at once, but one main course might cost $36 at a Restaurant X.” The executive chef is Tim Carey, who worked at Patina prior to Papilles.

Uy’s wine background comes from his stint at Silver Lake Wine and as a junior sommelier at A.O.C. He still curates the ever-changing list for Papilles, and favors Burgundies and the Loire Valley, since they pair well with both fish and meat, as many guests split everything 50/50. (PHOTO: Courtesy of Papilles)

Former sous chef Eric Buss is now in charge, following opening chef Gavin Mills’ decampment to Tavern. Signature dishes that were created under Mills still remain, such as the chicken and waffles and potato gnocchi. But Buss has added his own touches to the rotating menu, among them two incredibly hearty dishes: fried chicken livers on buttermilk biscuits with roasted pork gravy, and the staff favorite house-made sausage in a bacon-beer broth with fried Brussels sprouts. For special occasions, Buss pushes boundaries even further, as with the uni pasta with anise cream that made its way onto the Valentine’s Day menu.

This is also a cocktail geek’s paradise. For an aromatic treat, try the 5 Points Manhattan, made with smoked bourbon, Guinness reduction, Punt e Mes vermouth and Angostura bitters. (PHOTO: Chicken and waffles - Wood & Vine by Marie Buck, courtesy of Wood & Vine)

Twenty-five degrees is the difference in temperature between a medium-rare burger and one that’s well done. It's also the name of the 24-hour upscale burger joint at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, where your server won’t look at you sideways if you order burger still mooing. Not only that, there's flocked wallpaper, chandeliers, cushy oversized booths, and a full bar.

Three house specialties get the most attention. The No. 3 with green chili, chipotle and avocado has a nice kick, but there are also endless DIY options with gourmet cheeses, more than 10 sauces and lots of extras. Breakfast is only served in the mornings, but a good compromise for a post-drinking, late-night nosh is the fried egg sandwich, available around-the-clock. The jumbo-sized onion rings are also a must-order. Spiked shakes have their own following, especially the Salty Caramel, which is so sweet it’s easy to forget there’s Maker’s Mark in it, though the touch of red sea salt really elevates it to true adult-beverage status. (PHOTO: Courtesy of 25 Degrees)